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La Moda

Hair & Beauty Salon


 You are here: Perming

Image of perming
PLEASE NOTE: The information given on this site is for general information only. It should not be considered as medical advice. As with all physical and medical conditions you should always consult your doctor or health care professional.




Perming techniques
The first thing necessary for a successful "Permanent Wave" is good hair procedures

A. ANALYSIS OF THE CLIENT'S HAIR

1. Determine the condition of the client's hair.
2. Determine whether an Alkaline or Acid Wave should be used.
3. Explain the hair's condition & perm selection to client.>

ALKALINE WAVE

The best choice for resistant hair, resistant grey hair, Asian hair, hair with low elasticity & hard to perm fine hair as well as normal, healthy hair.>

ACID WAVE

These are milder than alkaline perms & work at a lower pH level to reduce swelling of the hair during the perm process thus reducing the chance of damage to fragile & colour treated hair. A good choice for healthy hair with good elasticity, tinted hair, damaged hair, highlighted hair, or fragile hair. If there's any question over the hair's ability to take a perm, do a test curl (strand test) at this point.>

B. ROD SELECTION

i. Avoid use of spiral & concave rods when "normal"perming. Spiral wrapped hair creates a looser curl than a croquinole wrap technique. Concave rods make it impossible to wrap the hair without peaking the ends, which will produce a tight curl on the ends & a loose curl at the scalp.

ii. For the most natural wave pattern, a straight or cylindrical type rod should be used. A straight or cylindrical rod should be wrapped with the hair strands, or sections, the same width from the scalp to the ends. This allows the wrap to be executed in a true croquinole wrap technique & helps avoid spiralling of the hair. It also prevents bunching of the hair, which distorts the wave pattern

C. OFF-BASE & ON-BASE ROD PLACEMENT

i. Off-base rod placement is the most effective way to perm. But hair wrapped off-base often ends up with unsightly rod marks, breakage & incongruent wave patterns.
ii. To on-base wrap, a section is combed & held at a 45° angle off the head form. When wound, it will tend to sit behind of its own base. The pressure from the rods above will insure that hair is curled very close to the scalp. It also guarantees that congruent wave patterns are formed & no rod marks are created. By running the tail of a comb under the lower edge of the last rod wrapped in a section, the correct size section is easily made.>

D. THE PROPER USE OF END PAPERS

i. Your wrap should begin by sandwiching the hair between two end papers. This technique allows the hair to be held at the same width from scalp to ends.
ii. End papers may also be inserted as the hair is wrapped to the scalp. This is called cushion wrapping. Cushion wrapping is a great method to protect fragile hair. It keeps hair from crossing into itself as it is wrapped. It allows hair to swell & enables the perm solution to penetrate quickly to the ends of the hair.>

E. PROCESSING & REDUCING

The action of a perm comes from changing Cystine bonds to Cysteine, which is the effect of reducing the Cystine bond. This process allows the Polypeptide chains to slip along side of each other to conform to the circle (curl) produced when the hair is wrapped around the rod.>

F. TYPES OF PERMS

The most common reducing agents are: Ammonium Thioglycolate (alkaline wave) pH 9.0 to 10.0 Glycerylmonothiogrlycolate (acid wave) pH 6.5 to 8.2. Ammonium Thioglycolate & Hydrogen Peroxide (exothermic wave) pH 8.4 to 9.0.>

G. REDUCTION OF THE CYSTINE BOND - AMMONIUM THIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE

Two hydrogen atoms are released by two Thiodiglycolate molecules which combine with the Sulfur atoms that form the Cystine bond, thus creating Cysteine.

AMMONIUM DITHIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE

The formation of Cysteine & the changing of two Tthioglycolate molecules into Dithiodiglycolate now takes place. At this point, the Dithiodiglycolate will readily accept the return of the hydrogen it released. But, if there is an excess of Thiodiglycolate present the Cystine bond will remain broken & allow the Polypeptide chains to slip along side one another in response to the pressure placed on them by wrapping them around a perm rod.>

H. STOPPING THE REDUCING PROCESS

There must be an excess amount of Thiodiglycolate on the hair for it to process. Therefore, all that is needed to stop the reducing action is to rinse the rods with water. With an acid wave it is very important to rinse well as the solution is not compatible with the neutralizer. If the neutralizer is applied on top of the perm lotion an exothermic reaction will occur, the rods will become hot & the perm will fail.>

I. NEUTRALIZING (aka.Oxidizing)

Neutralizing solution contains the oxidizing agent Hydrogen Peroxide or Sodium Bromate. The oxidizing agent releases oxygen in the hair. This combines with the Hydrogen of the Cysteine to form water, as well as a new Cystine bond.>

J. OXIDATION PROCESS (ATMOSPHERIC OXIDATION)

Allowing the oxygen in the atmosphere to neutralize the perm & reforms the Cystine bonds & this is important. This process reforms the Cystine more slowly & completely because the hair is allowed to shrink & the Cystine bonds are brought back together again naturally. It also eliminates the fear of over oxidation.>

K. LOCKING­IN RESULTS

Once Neutralizer is rinsed from the hair, always condition & protect the hair from, sun exposure & other environmental damage.

There you go, the perfect Perm, and that's all there is to it!!




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  Address:
  192 Windmill Lane
  Cheshunt
  Hertfordshire
  EN8 9AF
  (How to find us)
  (Customer car parking at rear)

  Tel: 01992 624 644

  Email:enquiries@lamodahair.co.uk

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